THE VITREVIEW: LV DREAM EXHIBITION
LV DREAM:
A CAPTIVATING JOURNEY THROUGH LOUIS VUITTON'S CREATIVE LEGACY
It’s Louis Vuitton week over at our sister site, DECADENT MATERIAL, so in solidarity The Curio Aesthete will be releasing additional Louis Vuitton content to keep all the Curio’s abreast of all the happenings. The LV DREAM exhibit was a spectacular journey through 160 years of Louis Vuitton's creative genius. Imagine, if you will, nine rooms of pure magic in the heart of Paris, each one more fabulous than the last bursting at the seams with creativity. It offers a mesmerizing exploration of the Maison's artistic collaborations and innovative evolution. Set in the historic La Belle Jardinière building in central Paris, I was privileged to attend this immersive exhibition that promises takes visitors on a captivating journey through nine themed rooms, each offering a unique perspective on the brand's rich history and contemporary relevance.
Historical Context
The choice of location for an exhibition is a critical curatorial decision that can profoundly impact the viewer's experience and the show's overall narrative. This is exemplified by Louis Vuitton's decision to host their LV DREAM exhibition at the former La Belle Jardinière department store in Paris. La Belle Jardinière, founded in 1824 near the Pont Neuf, pioneered Parisian retail history. It revolutionized the fashion industry by introducing the concept of ready-to-wear clothing at a time when most garments were custom-made or purchased second-hand. By combining the workshop and sales floor under one roof, La Belle Jardinière created a new retail model that would shape the future of fashion consumption.
The choice of this historically significant location for the LV DREAM exhibition is not coincidental. It creates a rich tapestry of connections between Louis Vuitton's history of innovation and the building's pioneering past. This decision aligns with a long tradition in exhibition history of using location to enhance and contextualize the displayed works. Throughout the history of exhibitions, curators and artists have recognized that the environment in which art or artifacts are presented can significantly influence their interpretation and reception. From the grand salons of the 18th century to the white cube galleries of the 20th, and now to repurposed industrial spaces and historic buildings, the evolution of exhibition spaces reflects changing attitudes towards art presentation and viewer engagement.
By choosing La Belle Jardinière, Louis Vuitton not only showcases its products and history but also places it within a broader narrative of fashion innovation in Paris. The location serves as a silent yet powerful curator, adding layers of meaning to the exhibition. It invites visitors to consider the parallels between La Belle Jardinière's revolutionary retail concept and Louis Vuitton's contributions to luxury fashion and retail experiences. Moreover, the repurposing of this historic retail space for a luxury brand exhibition demonstrates the ongoing dialogue between past and present in the fashion world. It highlights how contemporary brands can draw inspiration from and pay homage to their predecessors while pushing the boundaries of innovation.
The LV DREAM exhibition at La Belle Jardinière exemplifies how the careful selection of an exhibition location can create a meaningful connection with the local community and history. It transforms the viewing experience from a simple display of products into a journey through time, linking the visitor to the rich tapestry of Parisian fashion history.
THE ROOMS
Louis Vuitton: As Seen By
I was greeted by a striking digital Louis himself, reimagined by the brilliant Cao Fei. This innovative portrayal, titled "Mr. Louis," merges historical legacy with futuristic technology, setting a tone of creative fusion for the entire exhibition. Cao Fei, a leading figure among China's new generation of artists, is celebrated for her multimedia works that blend social commentary, popular culture, and surrealist elements. Her digital interpretation of Louis Vuitton exemplifies her signature style of mixing reality with fantasy.
This immersive digital portrait serves as a captivating introduction, symbolizing the exhibition's aim to bridge Louis Vuitton's 160-year heritage with contemporary artistic vision. It reflects the brand's commitment to innovation while honoring its historical roots, creating a unique dialogue between past and present. Additional portraits by renowned artists such as Yan Pei Ming, Mister Cartoon, Alex Katz, and Refik Anadol further illustrate the brand's enduring influence on contemporary art. This room effectively establishes the brand's founder as both a historical figure and a subject of modern artistic interpretation.
Origins
This room showcases unique creations from the last century, including one of my favorite pieces ever called the “Stokowski Secretary Desk” and an 1890s trunk once owned by photographer Paul Nadar. The room also features a digital presentation of the bespoke trunk created in 2018 for Vermeer's "The Milkmaid," highlighting Louis Vuitton's ongoing commitment to art and craftsmanship. This section provides a tangible link between the brand's historical roots and its current status as a luxury powerhouse.
Art on Silk
The "Art on Silk" room was a who's who of artistic brilliance filled with a riot of color and imagination. From Sol LeWitt to Tracey Emin, It traces the evolution from the late 1980s Textile Series, featuring works by, James Rosenquist, Gae Aulenti, and Andrée Putman, to more recent designs by Urs Fischer, and Andre Saraiva. This section beautifully illustrates how Louis Vuitton has consistently used its products as a canvas for artistic expression, transforming functional accessories into wearable art.
Image Source:
Louis Vuiiton
The World of Louis Vuitton According to Rei.
This room spotlights collaborations with the icon and the legend that is Rei Kawakubo, founder of Comme des Garçons. Where do I even begin? Rei Kawakubo has had a profound and transformative impact on the fashion industry since her debut and has at this point transcended fashion. Kawakubo's work has several touchpoints that have influenced broader cultural conversations about identity, beauty, and artistic expression. Kawakubo's designs subvert traditional garment shapes, functions, and ideas of beauty. She deconstructed clothing to create entirely new forms, proposing a radical new relationship between body and dress. Kawakubo pioneered avant-garde aesthetics like asymmetry, oversized silhouettes, and deconstructed forms. Her 1982 "Destroy" collection with ripped and distressed garments shocked the fashion world and "Bags With Holes" - as an exhibition room was pure genius!
Who would have thought holes could be so chic? Her 2008 "Party Bags" collection, innovative in format and functionality, is showcased alongside her 2014 contribution to the Celebrating Monogram Collection: "Bags With Holes," which elegantly subverted Louis Vuitton tradition. This section demonstrates how contemporary designers have interpreted Louis Vuitton's classic elements, pushing the boundaries of fashion and luxury.
Reinterpreting Icons
The "Reinterpreting Icons" section is a testament to the brand's ability to reinvent itself. It features innovative bag designs from the 1996 and 2014 Monogram collections, including Karl Lagerfeld's "Punching Bag," Cindy Sherman's "Studio Trunk," Frank Gehry's "Twisted Box," and Christian Louboutin's "Shopping Bag." These pieces showcase how Louis Vuitton has consistently pushed the boundaries of fashion and design, inviting renowned creatives to reimagine its iconic products.
Leather Goods in Fashion
This room is dedicated to collaborations with pop art icons Takashi Murakami and Yayoi Kusama. Now I recognize how important their work is but I have never particularly liked the Murakami or the Kusama aesthetic at Vuitton. I know I know, fashion jail and all that. But that doesn’t mean that I don’t understand the significance of their contributions. With his collaboration with Louis Vuitton, Takashi Murakami has been at the forefront of challenging the division between art and commercialism. This began in 2003, when Murakami customized the Vuitton Monogram in various colors, turning it into a playful design on a classic bag. This collaboration was considered a significant fashion moment of that year by Time Magazine. Yayoi Kusama, additionally, has left a lasting impact on the art world, establishing herself as one of the most influential artists of the 20th and 21st centuries. Her Infinity Mirror Rooms have redefined the way art is experienced, inviting viewers to immerse themselves in a world of infinite reflections. Kusama's distinctive polka dot patterns, known as "infinity nets," have had a major influence on minimalist and pop art movements, with artists like Donald Judd and Andy Warhol recognizing her contribution to contemporary art. Their takes on Louis Vuitton's heritage pieces demonstrate the brand's ability to stay relevant and exciting in the contemporary art world. Murakami's colorful reinterpretations of the Monogram and Kusama's distinctive polka dot patterns on classic Louis Vuitton shapes exemplify the brand's successful fusion of high art and high fashion. Not my favorite but the exhibition design and display? Stunning! All that beautiful white with pops of color, just absolutely delicixus!
Bags as Blank Canvas
The "Bags as Blank Canvas" room featured the Monogram and Artycapucines collections, including interpretations by Brazilian artists Beatriz Milhazes and Vik Muniz. This section highlights Louis Vuitton's global reach and its commitment to showcasing diverse artistic voices. The Artycapucines project, in particular, demonstrates how the brand continues to evolve its iconic Capucines bag through collaborations with contemporary artists from around the world.
Art Meets Fashion
The exhibition culminated in the "Art Meets Fashion" room, which brings together collaborations between Louis Vuitton's artistic directors and renowned creatives since the Maison introduced fashion in 1998. It features works by Daniel Buren and Richard Prince with Marc Jacobs; Jake and Dinos Chapman and Christopher Nemeth with Kim Jones; Atelier Fornasetti and Grace Coddington with Nicolas Ghesquière; and Nigo with Virgil Abloh.
Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton
Complementing the visual feast is a café and chocolate shop by Pastry Chef Maxime Frédéric of Cheval Blanc Paris. Set in a refreshing tropical plant-filled space, Frédéric transforms Louis Vuitton signatures into beautiful and delicious sweets. The chef explains, "The idea was to offer the widest possible variety that could please everyone," underscoring the inclusive nature of this gastronomic experience.
HIGHLIGHTS
STUDIO IN A TRUNK
Special desk-trunk presented with its Camera Messenger bag in Monogram canvas In collaboration with Cindy Sherman
Created: 2014
Materials: Coated canvas, wood, lozine, brass, natural cowhide, microfibre, glass
Photographer Cindy Sherman, known for her captivating fictional self-portraits, created the Studio in a Trunk as a practical companion for the extensive preparation required for her elaborate transformations. Inspired by the hotel stickers found on vintage Louis Vuitton trunks that narrate the adventures of their owners, Sherman wanted her pieces to symbolize her own photographic journey. Each patch on the trunk draws from her work and photos, capturing her artistic evolution. Embracing the concept of a messenger-style bag for her biking photography expeditions, Sherman integrated a dedicated storage space for the Camera Messenger bag inside the Studio in a Trunk.
Image Source;
Louis Vuitton
STOKOWSKI SECRETARY DESK-TRUNK IN MONOGRAM CANVAS
Created: 1964
Materials: Coated canvas, wood, lazine, leather, brass
Louis Vuitton continues to showcase its innovative designs with a nod to its roots in the Monogram canvas trunks that date back to 1930. The Stokowski desk trunk, originally created for the conductor Leopold Stokowski, was a unique piece that transformed the traditional trunk into a portable workstation with various compartments for his music scores, files, and papers.The one-of-a-kind design soon gained legendary status, later entering production for the public. which was made to open up and extend into a folding workstation, complete with a desk, book shelves, a typewriter recess, and drawers for the conductor’s scores, files, and manuscript papers.
This iconic design was reintroduced in a new 2021 version.
WARDROBE TRUNK IN MONOGRAM CANVAS
Created: 1875
Materials: Coated canvas, wood, lazine, leather, brass
Sold by louis Vuitton starting in 1875, the Wordrobe trunk is designed to be used in a vertical position, placed in the traveller's cobin and opening like a closet to ollow direct access to clothes without having to unfold them.The Wordrobe trunk saw a tremendous rise in populority with the growth of transotlantic travel in the 1910s and 1920.This model is available in on infinite variety of interior layouts, sizes and coverings to sotisfy stylish travellers. This iconic model is produced to this day in the Asnières workshops.(The exhibtion review of the Asnières workshop is up next btw )
MARILYN TRUNK IN MONOGRAM MULTICOLORE CANVAS
Created: 2007
Materials:
Trunk: Multi-coloured canvas, natural cowhide leather, brass and wood; Interior: microfibre textile
Handbags: Monogram multicolour canvas, alligator leather and brass
Louis Vuitton designed the "Marilyn" trunk as part of a limited edition of 5 to feature 33 Murakami bags, each representing a color of the Monogram Multicolour. This trunk, showcased in 2007 at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles during a Murakami retrospective, is made of Canvas Monogram Multicolour canvas, alligator leather, and brass. It has special compartments to display the bags in a unique way, along with five drawers for storing accessories or documents.
BED TRUNK IN DAMIER CANVAS
Created; 1892
Materials: Coated canvas, wood, iron, brass, textile, leather
During the mid-1880s, Louis Vuitton created a Bed Trunk for travelers and explorers, which became popular among various nomadic individuals like soldiers. This model, once owned by Gaston-Louis Vuitton, was showcased at many international exhibitions and gained success globally. In 1885, Georges, Louis Vuitton's son, patented the invention for this model, as shown by the plaque on the trunk.
LOUIS VUITTON BICYCLE
Created: 1854
Materials: Steel, Beech wood,Mahina leather,
The inaugural Louis Vuitton Bike is a reinterpretation of a classic Maison Tamboite model, showcasing the exceptional craftsmanship and standards of both brands in the realms of leatherwork and woodworking. Featuring a cherry-red enamelled steel frame and a saddle crafted from Louis Vuitton’s signature perforated Mahina leather, the LV Bike also includes Monogram leather on the handlebars and cables. Handmade in Paris, this special bike offers four distinct models, each with unique characteristics: Monogram, Damier Graphite, Lime Yellow, and “Since 1854” Monogram. Every bike is fabricated with precision, beginning with a steel frame that is lightened for a smoother ride, and comes equipped with a two-speed drivetrain. The use of beech wood in the tire rims and mudguard, along with high-quality leather for the saddle, handlebars, and cables, showcases attention to detail. Louis Vuitton’s signature elements are evident throughout, including a Monogram flower chainset and an LV-shaped frame meticulously cut with a jeweller's fretsaw. Every step of the construction process, from brazing the frame to polishing, is done with meticulous care, resulting in a unique and exceptional ride that caters to cyclists of all levels.
LV DREAM successfully bridges past and present, heritage and innovation, creating a rich, exhilarating experience that celebrates Louis Vuitton's enduring creative spirit and cultural impact. By showcasing collaborations with artists, designers, and creatives from various fields, the exhibition underscores Louis Vuitton's role not just as a luxury brand, but as a cultural institution that continues to shape and reflect contemporary aesthetics and values. LV DREAM was an exhibition, yes, a feast for the senses absolutely, but ultimately,It is Vuitton flexing their muscles through their archives, reminding us why they've been at the forefront of luxury for over a century.
A dream realized indeed.
Check out the VITCAM below.
