THE NÉCESSAIRE DE VOYAGE: OBJET D'ART & OBJETS DE VERTU MEET.
Image Source:
https://usines-parfum.fragonard.
This week on The Curio-Aesthete, I will be highlighting a fabulous object from the past, called “The Nécessaire De Voyage” (NDV). This was not just a functional item but portable objet d'art that in turn housed a plethora of objets de vertu items. Also referred to as a traveling kit or travel trunk, it represented an utter frenzy of savoir-faire and innovation that dates back to the 17th century. The nécessaire de voyage begins its story as a small étui for sewing and grooming, the French Regency arrives in 1715 and turns it into the ne plus ultra of traveling cases. By the end of the 1700s, the nécessaire had become a veritable Russian doll of opulence. In addition to toiletries and needlework, suddenly these boxes were fitted with compartments galore housing writing implements, breakfast sets -for sipping tea, coffee, chocolat -all the most delicieuxly wicked indulgences of the time, and even timepieces and calendars, to track one's adventures.
In Vladimir Nabokov's memoir “Speak, Memory”, he immortalizes his Nécessaire de Voyage, describing it as a faithful companion throughout the epic journey of his life. The valise, adorned with his mother's initials and coronet, has been a witness to countless adventures across Europe, America, and the Twentieth century. Despite losing its valuables to a pawnbroker in the 1930s, the travel kit continued to accompany Nabokov, surviving more than thirty years of journeys across various countries and states. The enduring presence of this valise as the hardiest survivor of their Russian heritage is both symbolic and fitting.
NÉCESSAIRE VARIANTS
This elegant collection was made by skilled goldsmiths and other craftsmen from Augsburg and Germany. It was owned by the imperial counts Schenk von Stauffenberg and kept at Schloss Jettingen in Swabia. The ensemble includes a variety of materials such as gilt silver, hard-paste porcelain, cut glass, walnut, carved wood, leather, steel, iron, textiles, paper, and hog's bristle, as well as two Japanese Imari ware teacups and a German service from 1743-45.
(Metropolitan Museum of Art)
Toilette Necessaires:
Also termed bedroom sets, toilet services, dressing cases, or vanity services, these held accoutrements du jour for grooming and cosmetic purposes like combs, brushes, mirrors, and containers for perfumes or rouge. It was typically. used as part of the daily levée, or ceremonial dressing, of a high-ranking aristocrat in eighteenth-century Europe. The levée ritual played an essential role in courtly etiquette; therefore, all accessories were required to reflect the owner's noble status. Customarily a husband gave such a dazzling set to his bride as a " morning gift" following the wedding night.
Etui/Sewing Necessaires:
A sewing etui, similar to a writing nécessaire, is a portable case used for storing sewing supplies. It was favored by travelers and people looking to keep their tools organized and accessible. The items usually found inside include needles, thread, thimbles, pins, scissors, seam rippers, and sometimes buttons. Sewing etuis, like writing nécessaires, were crafted from different materials and could be ornamental. They were often designed to be compact for easy transportation. While not as common today, sewing etuis can still be purchased in antique stores or online from specialty shops. Additionally, an "etui" can also denote a small case for personal belongings. These cases contained miniature sewing tools such as scissors, thimbles, and needle cases, facilitating the repair or decoration of clothing items.
An antique Palais Royal etui made of mother of pearl and gold includes a mirror plate, embroidered silk cushion, and a removable tray containing various sewing tools, such as snowflake winders with gold thread, stiletto, needle case, scissors, thimble, needle, and a cut-glass scent bottle. The set also features three sewing tools with an enamelled pansy, the well-known Palais Royal trademark.
image source:
https://markgoodger.co.uk/product/palais-royal-tortoiseshell-sewing-box/
An example of a Louis Vuitton picnic set from 1908 featuring a cowhide leather trunk with brass hardware. The set includes utensils and dining ware for four individuals, all bearing the Louis Vuitton brand. The intention was to offer a comprehensive dining solution that could be conveniently carried and arranged for outdoor gatherings.
image source:
https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/legendary-trunks-european-private-collection/natural-cowhide-leather-picnic-trunk-brass-hardware-3/227328
Picnic Nécessaire:
The history of the picnic nécessaire, or portable picnic set, dates back to the 18th century when the concept of outdoor dining began to gain popularity among European aristocracy. These sets were designed to provide all the necessary items for an elegant meal in the countryside, combining practicality with luxury.
The picnic nécessaire has become a symbol of refined leisure and the art of outdoor dining. It reflects a blend of practicality and luxury, allowing users to enjoy a sophisticated meal in nature. Over the centuries, these sets have evolved from bespoke creations for the elite to more widely available products, yet they continue to embody a sense of elegance and tradition.
Writing Nécessaire:
A writing nécessaire was a portable container used for writing on the go, popular in the 18th and 19th centuries. It typically included pens or pencils, inkwell, sand for drying ink, sealing wax and a seal for closing letters, paper, and sometimes a small folding knife or scissors. The nécessaires were often made from luxurious materials like shagreen, tortoiseshell, or silver, and decorated with engravings or inlaid designs, making them not only functional but also a fashionable statement.
A rectangular writing box made of pale blue enamel, featuring a wavy front and adorned with gilt metal hinges and scalloped rim mounts. The box is decorated with rural scenes surrounded by gilt foliate scrolls on the top and sides. Inside, it holds various writing supplies such as a pot, inkwells, pencil, nibs, and a seal. The materials used in creating this exquisite piece include enamel, gilt metal, and glass.
Image Source:
https://www.rct.uk/collection/22511/writing-box
Nécessaires de Poche:
In the 18th century in Europe, there was a trend for small caskets called nécessaires de poche (pocket necessaries) that were made of valuable materials and contained tiny tools for grooming, writing, or sewing.
Traveling Nécessaires:
In my humble opinion, the piece de resistance of the genre. How sensational is this? Also called a travel service or a travel kit. They were larger cases designed for extended journeys, with compartments accommodating all of the above and much more in a decidedly luxurious manner.
This exquisite Asprey Vanity box made of Silver Gilt Coromandel wood comes with its original leather case, which features a cleverly hidden secret compartment for protection during travel. The box belonged to Mrs. Mary Anne Devereux, Viscountess Hereford, and is beautifully veneered with brass details and an engraved monogram. Opening the lid reveals a luxurious interior with ten glass jars with silver-gilt lids and a fully fitted tool pad. The box also showcases internal corner brackets, engraved hinges, and individual monograms on the gilded lids of the jars. The retailer's plaque on the back identifies it as being made by Asprey on Bond Street.
Image Source:
https://markgoodger.co.uk/product/asprey-coromandel-silver-gilt-vanity-box/#tab-description
HONORABLE MENTION*
Boucheron Healing Nécessaire:
The Boucheron Healing Nécessaire is a very specific and rare type of necessaire created by the famous Parisian jeweler Boucheron. It's not your typical necessaire that held writing supplies or sewing notions. This unique case held gemstones believed to have healing properties.
There is only one known Boucheron Healing Nécessaire documented, which appeared on the Antiques Roadshow in 2019. The case itself was made of gold and enamel and contained various gemstones, including amethyst, bloodstone, and rock crystal.
Image Source:
https://www.pbs.org/video/antiques-roadshow-appraisal-boucheron-healing-stone-necessaire-ca-1885/
HISTORY
The Nécessaire de Voyage, a quintessential symbol of luxury and sophistication, has a rich history spanning several centuries. This exquisite travel accessory evolved from the toilet service and French traveling box, tracing its origins back to the late 14th century. Initially designed as simple containers for basic grooming equipment, these boxes gradually transformed into elaborate symbols of status and refinement.
The earliest known "nécessaire" in France belonged to King Charles VI in 1387, containing a modest toiletry set with three combs, a brush, and a mirror. By the 15th century, nobles had begun to use more elaborate traveling boxes, adorned with precious materials like bone, ivory, amber brushes, and gilt mirrors. A notable example from 1538 was a gift to François I from Parisian silversmith Jean Cousin, featuring gilded grooming tools adorned with rubies and turquoise stones, and even a clock set with a large sapphire. As time progressed, the Nécessaire de Voyage became increasingly comprehensive and sophisticated. By the 17th century, these boxes, known as "cassettes de nuit" (night cases), had expanded to include not only toiletries but also items for dining and entertainment. They contained kettles with heating burners, tea caddies, porcelain cups, and saucers, allowing travelers to host elegant thé dansant en route! larger cases included silver basins, ewers, serving platters, candlesticks, water basins, dishes, glasses, pitchers, bottles, and candelabra, essentially providing a portable luxury living space.
The term "nécessaire" itself was first recorded in 1718 in a letter from the Duchesse d'Orleans, describing a small case filled with gold and enamel items for preparing tea, coffee, and chocolate milk. This marked the beginning of the nécessaire's peak popularity, which lasted through the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries. During the Revolution and First Empire, two master craftsmen, Pierre-Dominique Maire and Martin-Guillaume Biennais, became renowned for their exquisite nécessaires. Maire was known for his elaborate sets created for European royalty and dignitaries, while Biennais served as Napoleon's personal silversmith. Their creations included intricate sets with ewers, silver bowls, perfume bottles, and grooming tools, as well as fine porcelain and silver items for dining in style. Napoleon, a frequent traveler, commissioned several of these sets for himself.
The nécessaire's evolution reflected changing social norms and travel habits. Initially designed primarily for men, these travel kits gradually began to cater to women as it became more socially acceptable for them to embark on journeys, particularly the Grand Tour. This shift in design and purpose mirrored the increasing mobility and independence of upper-class women during this period.Beyond their practical use, nécessaires also served important social and political functions. They were often used as diplomatic gifts and political tools, symbolizing goodwill and cultural sophistication. For instance, Marie Antoinette commissioned a duplicate of her own nécessaire as a gift for her sister, Maria Christina, Duchess of Teschen, ostensibly as a diplomatic gesture but actually to conceal her plans to flee France. Another example, is the exquisite travel kit crafted by Biennais for the wedding of Joseph Fouché, Duke of Otranto, to Ernestine de Castellane. This lavish gift symbolized the alliance between Fouché, a powerful former Jacobin Minister of Police, and Castellane, a member of Provence's nobility, marking a significant moment in French history. The craftsmanship of these nécessaires was extraordinary, often featuring intricate brass inlays and considered works of art in their own right. The Louis XV-style miniature nécessaire, for example, contained only the essentials for a gentleman's brief journey, showcasing the balance between luxury and practicality.
As travel became fashionable for Europeans embarking on the Grand Tour, the demand for these fitting travel boxes increased in the 18th century. The nécessaires were meticulously crafted to reflect the giver's wealth and the recipient's status, serving as tangible representations of the social and cultural sophistication of their owners.In essence, the Nécessaire de Voyage represents a fascinating intersection of luxury, practicality, and social history. These beautifully crafted objects serve as tangible links to a bygone era of luxury travel and social refinement, embodying the evolution of European elite culture from the 14th to the 19th centuries.
Image Source:
http://www.ascasonline.org/articoloMAGGI170.html#google_vignette
In the 1770s, shortly after Louis XVI's ascension to the French throne, Queen Marie-Antoinette commissioned a magnificent travel case. This exquisite ensemble, designed by silversmith Jean-Pierre Charpenat, showcased the young queen's role as a trendsetter & arbiter of elegance. The set featured an array of silver and porcelain toilet and travel articles, meticulously crafted by the renowned Sèvres manufactory
Necessaires distinguished themselves from their English counterparts through the ingenuity of their interior layouts and exterior designs. These were not mere trunks, but showpieces of decadence and showmanship. Gilded, enameled, bejeweled to the nines in the finest ivories, tortoiseshells, and precious woods. As nécessaires gained popularity across 18th-century Europe, a wider range of materials appeared, including veneers, lacquer, and mother-of-pearl. The craftsmen were fearless visionaries, crafting curved, radial, ellipsoid shapes with the most deliriously sumptuous inlays, marquetries, and metalwork engravings. Mahogany, rosewood, thuya - a kaleidoscope of sumptuous material. Where the English had made quaint little travel boxes, the French turned luxury, hygiene, entertainment, and grooming into a condensed portable art form.
Corals, amber, turquoise - even precious gold itself - adorned these objects in sumptuous displays of indulgent opulence. Practicality took a demure curtsy, making way for the pursuit of pure aesthetic expression, no expenses spared. These nécessaires de voyage were indeed far more than mere utilitarian objects. As ladies of discernment embarked upon their travels, these precious cases became indispensable companions - compact sanctuaries housing all manner of toilette essentials. Imagine the breathless delight as a lady opened oh so delicately, the doors and drawers of this precious object, as she witnessed the intricate engravings and jeweled embellishments dancing in the flickering candlelight of her boudoir. For the aesthete attuned to true beauty, the most exceptional Nécessaires transcended the realm of mere decorative arts. The creation of each nécessaire was an exquisite collaboration across a constellation of master artisans. From the deft hands of designers to the jewel-like enamels laid by skilled enamelers, every detail was a loving caress of craftsmanship upon these objects, rarified treasures to be coveted, admired, and passed like precious heirlooms through generations of cultivated collectors.
NOTABLE CREATORS
Villeroy & Boch (Germany):
Founded in 1748, Villeroy & Boch is renowned for its high-end ceramic products, including luxurious toilet services made of porcelain and precious metals in the 18th and 19th centuries. Their pieces were highly sought after by European nobility and aristocracy for their exquisite craftsmanship and elegant designs.
Asprey(England):
Asprey, founded in 1781 by William Asprey, began in Surrey before moving to London's New Bond Street. The company quickly established itself as a purveyor of luxury goods, gaining recognition for its exceptional craftsmanship, particularly in dressing cases. In 1862, Asprey received a Royal Warrant from Queen Victoria and a gold medal at the International Exhibition for their dressing cases[1][2]. From its prestigious London location, Asprey became renowned for producing exclusive, high-quality items for personal use and home decor, catering to a refined clientele seeking the finest luxury goods.
Louis Vuitton (France):
The renowned French fashion house, Louis Vuitton, has a long-standing tradition of crafting exquisite necessaires, or small decorative cases designed to hold various items. These luxurious accessories are a testament to the brand's commitment to exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail. Louis Vuitton's nécessaires were often made of fine leather and adorned with the brand's iconic monogram pattern.
Minton (England):
Mintons, a prominent company in Staffordshire pottery, was known as "Europe's leading ceramic factory during the Victorian era." The company operated independently from 1793 to 1968 and was a pioneer in ceramic design, exploring various ceramic bodies and decorative techniques. Mintons' unique style was characterized by a blend of different design elements, such as Rococo shapes with Oriental motifs, Classical shapes with Medieval designs, and Art Nouveau borders. The company was founded in 1793 by Thomas Minton in Stoke-upon-Trent, England, initially producing earthenware. Minton later partnered with Joseph Poulson in 1796 to produce bone china, and after Poulson's death in 1808, Minton continued the business on his own. In 1824, Minton established a new china pottery to further expand the company's operations. Minton wares have since been commissioned for the Royal households of Belgium, Russia, Siam, the Nether-lands, Prussia and Jordan.
Fabergé (Russia):
Fabergé's nécessaires often incorporated the firm's trademark enameling and gem-setting techniques. They created one of the most infamous nécessaires in the shape of an egg – the Nécessaire Egg, an Imperial Fabergé egg. The surprise was that the egg was essentially an etui, or necessaire, with 13 diamond-encrusted implements and toilet articles, showcasing Fabergé's unparalleled craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Sèvres (France):
The prestigious Sèvres Manufactory, established in 1740, created opulent toilet services for French royalty like the Bleu Celeste service made for Marie Antoinette. Sèvres' pieces were renowned for their intricate designs, vibrant colors, and impeccable quality, making them highly coveted by collectors and connoisseurs.
Wedgwood (England):
Josiah Wedgwood's pottery company produced fashionable toilet services in the 18th century, including the famous Green Frog Service. Wedgwood's pieces were renowned for their innovative designs, high-quality materials, and attention to detail, making them highly sought after by the English aristocracy and upper classes.
Tiffany & Co. (United States):
Tiffany & Co.'s cases featured intricate gold and silverwork, reflecting the brand's commitment to exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail. Their necessaires were often adorned with intricate engravings, enameling, and gemstone accents, making them true works of art.
Meissen Manufactory (Germany):
German craftsmen began experimenting to uncover the secrets of hard-paste porcelain in the 1670s, aiming to replicate the quality of Chinese and Japanese porcelain. In 1710, Augustus II, Elector of Saxony and King of Poland, established the Meissen manufactory near Dresden. This royal Saxon porcelain factory became the first in Europe to successfully produce true hard-paste porcelain. Meissen dominated the European porcelain market until around 1750, when the French royal manufactory at Vincennes (later Sèvres) rose to prominence. Augustus II's passion for porcelain and his patronage were instrumental in founding Meissen, which continues to create handcrafted pieces marked with its iconic crossed swords insignia in cobalt blue.
Hermes (France):
The Hermes Nécessaire de Voyage was a luxurious and iconic travel accessory crafted from the finest materials by skilled artisans. It symbolized sophistication and elegance, serving as both a functional travel kit and a statement of luxury. With its timeless design and exceptional craftsmanship, the Hermes Nécessaire de Voyage embodies the artistry and heritage of the Hermes brand.
Royal Copenhagen (Denmark);
This porcelain manufacturer, dating back to 1775, is known for its fine toilet services decorated with the iconic Blue Fluted pattern. Royal Copenhagen's pieces were highly sought after by European nobility and aristocracy for their exquisite craftsmanship and elegant designs.
Cartier (France):
The renowned French jeweler, Cartier, produced exquisite necessaires during the Art Deco period of the 1920s-1930s. These cases were true objets d'art, showcasing Cartier's mastery of craftsmanship and artistic flair. They often featured geometric patterns, bold colors, and precious materials like enamel, gemstones, and precious metals, reflecting the Art Deco movement's emphasis on luxury and modernity.
Boin & Henry' silversmiths(France):
Established in Paris in 1873 by George Boin and Emile Taburet, the highly regarded Mâison Boin-Taburet produced high-quality silver and metalwork pieces for the high-end retail market supplying pieces for Royalty and affluent customers around the world. They exhibited at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris where they were awarded a gold medal. The firm continued until 1900 when they were renamed Boin & Henry Silversmiths.
Biennais(France):
Martin-Guillaume Biennais was the official supplier to the imperial court. By 1789, he had set up his business in Paris as a tabletiere, specializing in creating and selling small objects like games tables, cane handles, and traveling cases, which became his specialty. Known as a virtuoso in his craft, he was a tablet maker, cabinetmaker, and goldsmith.
Maire(France):
Pierre-Dominique Maire (circa 1763-1827) was a Parisian "fabricant de necessaires" during the Revolution and First Empire, . A necessaire by Maire was exhibited at the château de Malmaison during the 2007-2008 "Indispensable Necessaires" exhibition, and another is housed in the Kunstgewerbemuseum in Berlin.
These notable creators and manufacturers of nécessaires de voyage, toilette services, and dressing table sets were renowned for their exceptional craftsmanship, innovative designs, and use of high-quality materials. Their pieces were highly coveted by royalty, nobility, and the wealthy, and remain highly sought after by collectors and museums today as masterpieces of decorative art.
NÉCESSAIRE CONTENTS:
The newfound opulent tastes of the era translated to Vanity and traveling tools, which were essential components of the Nécessaire de Voyage. These cases contained various tools and accessories for personal grooming, entertainment, and writing while traveling. Bottles and jars of the era were not always the ornate objets we see today, these accouterments were rather austere affairs - their unembellished forms favoring function over the pursuit of beauty. But as the Regency era blossomed, so too did a newfound appreciation for transforming the plebeian into the glorious! Artisans began lavishing their genius upon even the humblest dressing case glassware. Lids and tops became petite canvases, adorned with coquettish flourishes that delighted the cultivated eye.
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Vanity and Travelling Tools
The contents typically included:
Gentlemen's Nécessaire de Voyage
- Cut-throat razors
- Shaving brushes
- Boot jacks
Ladies' Nécessaire de Voyage
- Sewing-related tools (needle cases, crochet hooks, bodkins, thimbles)
Common Contents
1. Small glass bottles for perfumes and fragrances (vinaigrettes)
2. Corkscrew
3. Retractable toothpick
4. Stiletto/Awl
5. Double-ended medicine spoon
6. Napkin hook
7. Glove stretchers
8. Penknife
9. Nail file and cuticle scraper
10. Tweezers
11. Bodkin/ribbon threader
12. retractable pencil
13. Hinged perfume bottle corkscrew
14. Crochet hook
15. Pencil lead case
16. Hinged glove buttoning hook
17. Needle case
18. Wax seal stamp
19. Button hook
20. Ink bottles for writing implements
21. Bottles for toiletry liquids like eau de cologne
22. Small lidded boxes or jars for creams, balms, and solid toiletries
23. Powder boxes or compacts
24. Grooming implements like brushes, combs, scissors, and nail files
25. Writing implements like pens, pencils, and letter openers
26. Small mirrors
27. Sewing kit with needles, thread, scissors.
28. Kettles with heating burners
29. Tea caddies
30. Tea and coffee pots
31. Cream jugs
32. Sugar bowls
33. Porcelain cups and saucers
34. Sets of cutlery
35. Drinking glasses
36. Silver wash basins
37. Ewers
38. Serving trays
39. Removable candlesticks.
The tools were often made of steel, brass, or silver, sometimes gilded for decoration and stain resistance. The handles were made of materials like mother of pearl, ivory, bone, brass, or silver, and were sometimes engraved, engine-turned, gilded, chased, or plated.
SPECIALIZED ITEMS
Double-ended Perfume Bottles
These bottles were designed to contain perfume at one end and smelling salts at the other, with a partition in the middle. The ends were sealed with glass or cork stoppers, or a cork-lined hinged top with a spring-loaded opening mechanism.
Travelling Inkwells
These inkwells were among the smallest pieces of glassware in the set, with a lid fitted with a small inset folding handle that screwed down tightly for secure travel.
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Vinaigrettes
A vinaigrette is a small, elaborate container for aromatic vinegars or perfumes, used predominantly by ladies of a certain standing to breathe in pleasant fragrances or mask unpleasant odours during travel or social occasions.
Écuelle Rondo:
These small covered tureens with matching stands were commonly used to serve soups, bouillon, and other similar foods in private settings such as breakfast, during long grooming sessions, or when caring for sick or disabled individuals in bed. They were not designed for formal dinner service but were instead a key part of personal grooming sets. Typically, they were intricately decorated as they were intended for personal use. These tureens were crafted from a variety of materials, including porcelain, silver, and other metals.
CLOSE LOOKING:
NÉCESSAIRES & TOILET SERVICES
THE 48 PIECE SCHENK VON STAUFFENBERG SERVICE.
Created around 1743-45, this stunning collection exemplifies the highest point of artistry and skill in 18th-century Europe. With a prestigious history of ownership by the imperial counts Schenk von Stauffenberg at Schloss Jettingen in Swabia, the ensemble reflects the renowned craftsmanship of Augsburg. Skilled artisans collaborated to create intricate silver table services and toilet sets using a variety of opulent materials, such as gilt silver, hard-paste porcelain, cut glass, wood, leather, steel, iron, textiles, paper, and hog's bristle.
Image Source:
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/231564
LOUIS VUITTON: THE MILANO FITTED SUITCASE
This Art Deco toiletry kit, originally created for the groundbreaking 1925 Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts in Paris, is a testament to the era's luxury and innovation. The case, lined with sumptuous Moroccan leather and vibrant red silk, houses an impressive array of over 50 personal care items. From practical essentials like nail clippers and shoehorns to more refined pieces, the set exemplifies the height of 1920s sophistication.
A standout feature of this ensemble is the collection of ivory hair brushes. When stored in one of the kit's three removable trays, these brushes create a striking silhouette reminiscent of American skyscrapers, perfectly capturing the Art Deco movement's fascination with modernity and urban aesthetics. Noted for its exceptional craftsmanship and delicate design, this toiletry kit is considered one of the most exquisite pieces in its collection, embodying the elegance and attention to detail characteristic of high-end Art Deco creations.
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HERMÈS: ISAK DINESON
The Isak Dinesen travel kit, also known as the “out of Africa” travel kit, was specially made for Karen Blixen, who wrote under the pen name Isak Dinesen. She had two luxury luggage cases made for her in the 1930s, with the first being created in 1930 and a more elaborate version in 1935. The latter piece, pictured above, was particularly intricate, taking 368 hours to craft, suitable for a noblewoman traveling through rugged African landscapes. Both cases were decorated with beautiful inlays and engravings, featuring a baroness's crown and the monogram DBF (Dinesen Blixen-Finecke), representing her full title: Baroness Karen von Blixen-Finecke.
Image Source:
https://pursuitist.com/karen-blixens-crocodile-hermes-luggage-case-from-out-of-africa/
NÉCESSAIRE DE VOYAGE OF MARIE ANTOINETTE-1788
Marie Antoinette's nécessaire de voyage was a masterpiece of 18th-century craftsmanship and luxury. This rectangular travel case, crafted from exquisite veined mahogany, featured gilded copper corners and fittings, with a mobile copper handle on each side for easy transport. The lid, designed with multiple hinges for convenient access, was adorned with an oval gilded copper plate. This plate bore the engraved initials "MA" (Marie Antoinette) elegantly intertwined within a laurel wreath, symbolizing her royal status.
Inside, the case housed an impressive array of 94 objects, meticulously arranged to maximize space efficiency. These items, crafted from a variety of fine materials including silver, porcelain, crystal, steel, ivory, and ebony, served multiple purposes. The collection included implements for personal grooming, dining, and writing, ensuring the queen had all necessary luxuries at her disposal while traveling.This nécessaire de voyage, dating from 1787-88, exemplified the pinnacle of royal travel accessories, combining practicality with unparalleled elegance.
Image source:
https://collections.louvre.fr/ark:/53355/cl010113948
NÉCESSAIRE DE VOYAGE OF THE DUCHESSE D’OTRANTE
On August 1, 1815, Joseph Fouché, Duke of Otranto, married Ernestine de Castellane in his second marriage. The centerpiece of their wedding gifts was an exquisite travel kit crafted by Biennais, the official supplier to the imperial court. This masterpiece, bearing the famous "Purple Monkey" sign, showcased exceptional cabinetmaking and goldsmithing skills.The kit, a marvel of compact design, contained 75 intricately interlocking pieces within a mahogany box. Its lid was adorned with the CF monogram under a ducal crown surrounded by laurels. The contents included a tea and coffee service in chiseled and engraved vermeil, featuring ancient decor and mythological scenes symbolizing marriage.Despite its modest size, the box housed an impressive array of items: teapot, coffee maker, chocolate maker, stove, tea box, cups and saucers, toiletries, writing implements, and even a portable writing desk. The lid concealed an octagonal mirror and a set of bellows in gold-gilded morocco leather.
Photo credit:
https://fondationnapoleon.org/chef-d-oeuvre/necessaire-de-voyage-2/
SÉVRES: PORCELAIN TOILET SERVICE
During a visit to Paris in 1782, Marie Feodorovna, the future Tsar Paul I of Russia's wife, was gifted a stunning Neoclassical Sèvres porcelain toilet set by Queen Marie Antoinette. This elegant set was known as porcelaine de France at the time and was revered for its beauty, crafted during the Louis XVI era at Sèvres.The collection consists of more than sixty pieces of "jewelled Sevres" painted in gold on a deep blue background with classical designs in gold gilt. These pieces also feature delicate solid gold decorations and tiny enamel drops that resemble precious stones, considered cutting-edge porcelain decoration during that era. Notable items include an oval mirror adorned with biscuit porcelain sculptures of the Three Graces and playing amorini on porcelain jewelry boxes designed by Louis Simon Boizot. The intricate gold and bronze decorations were crafted by Jean Claude Duplessis, with the enamelling work being the invention of Joseph Cotteau. This legendary set, with a tongue scraper included, was valued at 75,000 livres at the time, equivalent to about a million in today's currency, and has not been replicated since.
Image source;
http://andrewhopkinsart.blogspot.com/2010/09/marie-antoinettes-gift-to-maria.html
GEORGE III SILVER-GILT TRAVELLING TOILET-SERVICE
A travelling toilet-service made of silver-gilt from the reign of George III is engraved with the Royal arms and Prince of Wales's crown. It includes various items such as a basin, beakers, toilet boxes, dressing table boxes, oblong toilet-boxes, a circular cover, a burner stand, a shaving brush, glass bottles, a whet-stone, a strop, and dressing table bottles. The set is housed in a mahogany case also adorned with the Royal arms and weighs 133 ounces and 14 pennyweights. The Royal arms and crest are attributed to George IV, who reigned from 1820 to 1830.
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TRAVELLING SERVICE OF EMPRESS MARIE LOUISE OF FRANCE
Napoleon gifted this NDV to his second wife, Marie Louise of Austria, from Emperor Franz I of Austria. The case, crafted by renowned goldsmith Biennais, features hidden compartments and includes over 120 items made from various luxurious materials. Among the items are a dinner service for two, toiletry set, writing and sewing tools, a measuring rod, a screwdriver, as well as dentist's instruments.
image source:
https://www.residenz-muenchen.de/englisch/treasury/pic06.htm
A VERNIS MARTIN OLIVE-GREEN NECESSAIRE DE VOYAGE
This 18th-century French nécessaire de voyage is painted with a green japanned finish and gilt decorations. It includes a Sèvres porcelain tea service with cover, sugar bowl with cover, milk jug, cylindrical pots with covers, coffee cups and saucers, all adorned with flower sprays and gilt dentil rims. The set also features glass tea caddies, scent bottles, silver-gilt accessories like a saucer and beaker, a patch box, spoons, and a knife. Additionally, there are gold thimbles, gilt-mounted scissors, a bodkin, and a key included in this collection.-
Image Source:
https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/collector-london/vernis-martin-olive-green-necessaire-de-voyage-131/220676
MINTON QUEEN VICTORIA PORCELAIN TOILET SERVICE
Queen Victoria's Minton porcelain service, given as a Christmas present by Prince Albert in 1853, along with a Minton toilet service and a dressing glass decorated with cherubs, remains on display in her dressing room at Osborne House
Image Source:
Eric minton.Com
By the end of the era, the nécessaire de Voyage had become utterly mad. No longer a simple travel case, oh no no no. It was a grand, sprawling repository of opulence. Toilet services, breakfast sets, needlework, writing implements - it housed everything the heart could desire. But most pivotally, most revealingly, it became a shrine to travel itself. One could pack a madness of petite, portable objets all consolidated into one deliriously chic enclosure. During the advent of the 1830s and 40s, As these charmante’s necessities found favor among the ladies, so too did their interior fittings reflect the intoxicating allure of the feminine mystique. Bottles and jars were no longer mere utilitarian vessels, but testaments to taste and breeding, to be admired and coveted.
In those days, you either had the artisan create your entire set or you curated one ,and one did not merely curate a dressing case, one assembled a bespoke collection, a tantalizing array of decorative splendors to delight the senses. If one was curating, it would have been assembled by a marchand-mercier in Paris, sourcing the individual components. In a later article, we will discuss further the pioneers of this specialized field, such as Dominique Daguerre and Edmé-François Gersaint. However, the marchand-mercier were versatile professionals who served as traders, importers, designers, and interior decorators. They significantly contributed to the growth of the luxury goods industry during their era. For the connoisseur of the exquisite, more was infinitely more. The more accessories housed within, the more deliciously embellished - the more rapturous the NDV became.
Engravings, gilding, and delicate chasings elevated these pieces to dizzying realms of artistry. Cradled in luxurious mahogany, rosewood, ebony - inlaid with extravagant brass, boulle-work, marquetry all combined into an operatic explosion of luxe. The nécessaire de voyage elevated the mundane act of grooming during travel into an artful ritual for the aristocratic classes, and the most superlative examples remain highly coveted by collectors and museums today as masterpieces of decorative art.
I’ve enjoyed discussing these magnificent objects. These were portable paradises! Each Nécessaire de Voyage, a delicious, delirious universe unto itself, bursting with the ecstasies and excesses of a decadent, depraved era.
Absolument fabuleux!
Check out the curated gallery of Nécessaries,Etui’s, Toilette services and Toilette artwork.
Sources
Rosewood Necessaire De Voyage Travel Case: - LiveAuctioneers https://www.liveauctioneers.com/price-result/rosewood-necessaire-de-voyage-travel-case/
Travel Bottle Set Accessories Cosmetics Essentials Kit Jars And ... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005039535576.html
Trousse de Voyage Vintage et son Nécessaire de Toilette https://vintagefrenchfinds.com/en/product/trousse-de-voyage-vintage-et-son-necessaire-de-toilette/
Traveling Case Nécessaire - Etsy https://www.etsy.com/market/traveling_case_n%C3%A9cessaire
Depoza 16 Pack Travel Bottles Set - TSA Approved Leak Proof ... https://www.amazon.com/Depoza-Pack-Travel-Bottles-Set/dp/B0BZ3W2P4X
https://fondationnapoleon.org/chef-d-oeuvre/necessaire-de-voyage-2/
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nécessaire_de_voyage
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https://collections.louvre.fr/ark:/53355/cl010113948
Objet d'art - Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Objet_d%27art
'The Legacy and Heritage of Art Deco' - OpenEdition Journals https://journals.openedition.org/insitu/37705
The Little Things - Objet D'arts From Around The World https://www.nyiad.edu/design-articles/the-little-things-objet-darts-from-around-the-world
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https://www.vintagefangirl.com/boucheron-healing-stone-necessaire-ca-1885-roadshow-archive-pbs
