THE VITREVIEW: LA MALLE COURRIER EXHIBITION
In this week's issue of The Curio Aesthete, I am thrilled to be your guide through another gorgeous Louis Vuitton exhibition. As I entered the Louis Vuitton Family House gallery in Asnières-sur-Seine, I couldn't contain my excitement. The "Malle Courrier" exhibition had been on my radar for months, and now I had the opportunity to bask in the rich history and groundbreaking designs of Louis Vuitton. I had been staying in the town of Asnieres during the last week of my French grand tour and after attending the LV dream exhibition(here) and the warhol x basquiat exhibition at the louis vuitton foundation (up next), this felt like a fitting end to the edu-nanigans.
THE SETTING:
ASNIÈRES FAMILY HOUSE
In our previous VitReview, we emphasized how crucial location is when organizing an exhibition, and the same holds for the Malle Courrier exhibition held at the Louis Vuitton family home in Asnières. Choosing this historic site, which doubles as the workshops and residence of Louis Vuitton's founder, was a deliberate decision that significantly influenced the viewer's experience and the overall narrative of the show. The authenticity and immersive backdrop provided by this setting enhanced the storytelling aspect of the exhibition. The Asnières site is filled with the rich history of the Vuitton family's commitment to quality and innovation. Every room, piece of furniture, and tool in the workshop contributes to the narrative of the exhibition, creating a more nuanced and engaging experience for spectators.
By showcasing the Malle Courrier exhibition at the Louis Vuitton family home in Asnières, visitors are given a special opportunity to connect with the brand's origins and legacy. The authenticity of the location allows guests to walk through the same spaces where the original trunks were designed and crafted, adding depth to the narrative and creating a unique experience for attendees.
The distinct setting of the Asnières location also allows for innovative exhibition design techniques, with curators and production designers utilizing the original workspaces, tools, and materials to enhance the display. The historical ambiance of the family home and workshops creates an immersive experience that transports visitors back in time, showcasing the meticulous craftsmanship and innovative spirit that has defined Louis Vuitton for generations.
In 1859, Louis moved his workshops to Asnières, a village in the countryside that was just over a mile from the gates of Paris and near the train station and the barges of the Seine The success of Louis Vuitton's trunks made his former Rue du Rocher location too cramped. Just as a growing Paris could no longer be held within the boundaries of the Fermiers-Généraux wall, Louis was stifled within the confines of his workshop.
At about the same time that Paris expanded to its present-day borders, Louis looked for a spacious lot where he could set up a new workshop with room for future expansion. In a strategic business move, Louis chose a plot of more than 48,500 square feet in Asnières, a village northeast of the center of Paris and less than three miles as the crow flies from the Opera district. Asnières was easily accessible by train from Paris's Saint-Lazare station,
Anticipating the success and growth to come, he needed a site that would keep pace with his ambitions Today, the workshop continues to resonate with the sounds of artisans at work, maintaining the brand's commitment to exceptional craftsmanship. Louis had to expand his operations to keep up with his success. His family eventually moved there too.
THE STAR OF THE SHOW:
MALLE COURRIER
The Louis Vuitton Malle Courrier is not just a longstanding design from the iconic French fashion brand—it forms the basis of the entire company. The Malle Courrier, a trunk that represents Louis Vuitton's inventive direction in creating travel gear, is the primary focus of this exhibition. The workshop space had been transformed into a series of dreamlike spaces, each highlighting different aspects of the Malle Courrier's history and design.
Created in 1858 and patented in 1867
Features a lightweight, waterproof design with a poplar wood frame
Originally covered in Grey Trianon Canvas ( more here)
Includes distinctive elements like lozine, metal corners, rivets, locks, and leather handles
Front adorned with two beech wood slats, a timeless signature
ACT I: THE GRAND ENTRANCE
The moment I entered, I was greeted by a stunning sight: video projections danced on the walls, and a chest seemed to levitate in mid-air, setting a magical tone for the experience ahead. It felt as if I had stepped into a grand theater, with the Malle Courrier chest, created in 1858, taking center stage.
ACT II: THE CABINET OF CURIOSITIES
As I moved through the first space, I entered the cabinet of curiosities. Each objet on display was a character in its own right, narrating tales of adventure, luxury, and craftsmanship. The attention to detail was astounding. From miniatures of several projects to all the beautiful necessaires created, every piece told a story of its own. I could almost hear the whispers of the past, the secrets these items had carried across continents and through time.
ACT III: THE INFINITE MIRRORS
The next room was a gallery of infinite trunks created by mirrors, a visual representation of Louis Vuitton's enduring legacy but also a presumed nod to Yayoi Kusama, a frequent Louis Vuitton collaborator known for her mirrored infinity rooms. As I walked through, my reflection multiplied endlessly, much like the influence of the Maison itself. It was a poignant reminder of how Louis Vuitton had not only stood the test of time but had also continually evolved, reflecting and shaping the world of fashion and travel.
ACT IV: THE CRAFTSMANSHIP
One of the most captivating parts of the exhibition was the live demonstration of the level of skill that goes into creating a Louis Vuitton trunk. Watching the artisans at work, their hands moving with precision and care, felt like witnessing a masterclass in dedication and skill. It became clear that every stitch, every cut, and every fold was a labor of love, a testament to the brand's commitment to excellence.
ACT V: THE GRAND FINALE
As I reached the final space, I was met with a breathtaking display of some of Louis Vuitton's most iconic pieces. Each trunk was a masterpiece, a blend of art and utility. The exhibition culminated in a celebration of the Maison's heritage and its vision for the future. It was a fitting finale to a journey that had taken me through time and space, leaving me in awe of the legacy that Louis Vuitton had built.
EPILOGUE: REFLECTIONS
As I left the gallery, I couldn't help but reflect on the experience. The "Malle Courrier" exhibition was more than just a showcase of luxury trunks; it was a narrative of human ingenuity, creativity, and the relentless pursuit of perfection.The exhibition ran until February 17, 2024. It was a journey I wouldn't soon forget, a chance to witness the magic of Louis Vuitton savoir faire up close and personal.
THE VITRINE X OBJET!
OBJET HIGHLIGHTS AT THE EXHIBITION
Louis Vuitton Maroquinaris Zoologicae Chameleon
In celebration of its 100th anniversary in small leather goods, Louis Vuitton commissioned artist Billie Achilleos for the Maroquinaris Zoologicae collection. This collection pushed the boundaries of art and fashion, showcasing exquisite leather animal sculptures crafted from Louis Vuitton bags and accessories.
To commemorate this milestone and the 2012 Salone del Mobile in Milan, Achilleos created a unique zoo featuring 30 intricate animal figures, highlighting the legendary craftsmanship of the French luxury house.
Maison Vivienne
Priced at ₹50,50,000.00, the Malle Maison Vivienne enriches Louis Vuitton’s exceptional collection of hardsided pieces. This collectible item features miniature reproductions of iconic Louis Vuitton Courrier Lozine and Wardrobe trunks, showcasing the brand's craftsmanship.
Features:
Coated Monogram canvas
Natural cowhide leather handles
Lock closure with brass metallic pieces
Removable hardsided box for storage
Sliding base that converts into a terrace for added space
Includes two small Vivienne dolls and 22 pieces of miniature furniture (including a mini wardrobe, trunks, and chairs)
This trunk is primarily a decorative object, and I was particularly enamored with the intricate details of all the miniature Vuitton items.
Airplane Bag in Monogram Canvas
Designed by Virgil Abloh this innovative bag takes the shape of an airplane, complete with outstretched wings. Crafted from supple leather and adorned with signature hardware, it features hidden metal banding to support the wings. The cockpit has a zipper opening, and it is priced at €39,000. Abloh's design reflects his inspiration drawn from the "tourist vs. purist" concept.
The interior is lined with a black textile material
Ebene Monogram Coated Canvas
Silver Hardware
This piece was featured on the runway, look 50, during the 2021 Fall/Winter Menswear Ready-To-Wear collection
Includes shoulder strap, luggage tag, handle connector, care card, and dust bag
Croix Rouge
This piece is a Red Cross First-Aid Kit boxfrom 1914, displayed in the Geneva store. It serves as a poignant reminder of the early collaboration between Louis Vuitton and the Red Cross in the early 20th century
Louis Vuitton Maroquinaris Zoologicae snake
In honor of reaching a century in producing small leather goods, Louis Vuitton collaborated with artist Billie Achilleos for the Maroquinaris Zoologicae collection. This collection merged art and fashion by displaying stunning leather sculptures of animals made from Louis Vuitton bags and accessories. To mark this special occasion at the 2012 Salone del Mobile in Milan, Achilleos designed a one-of-a-kind zoo with 30 elaborate animal figures, showcasing the exceptional skill and tradition of the renowned French luxury brand.
Maison de Famille
For Spring-Summer 2023, Nicolas Ghesquière introduced the Maison de Famille, a stunning miniature replica of the historic Maison d’Asnières. This piece invites you to explore the very essence of Louis Vuitton's rich history.
Features:
Dimensions: 34.7 x 33.5 x 19.4 cm (Length x Height x Width)
One top leather handle
Compartments with trays
S-lock closure
Buckle
Non-removable, adjustable strap
Strap drop: 49.0 cm (max: 57.0 cm)
Single handle
Price: €39,000