ORNAMENTAL: THE LOUIS VUITTON MONOGRAM
Introducing "Ornamental," a captivating segment of The Curio Aesthete blog where we deep dive into the intricate world of ornament and ornamental art. Here, we explore the delicate balance between form and embellishment, celebrating the artistry that transforms everyday objects into visual masterpieces.
Louis Vuitton week is still ongoing at DECADENT MATERIAL, so for the first edition of ornamental, we’re fixing our gaze on an icon of luxury ornamentation and design: the Louis Vuitton monogram. This unique example of ornamental art, which includes stylized flowers and interlocking LV initials, showcases how ornamentation can elevate an object while maintaining its core identity. It goes beyond just being a pattern, illustrating how ornamentation can turn the ordinary into something extraordinary while still keeping its essence intact. These instances demonstrate how the LV monogram embodies the essence of ornamentation by adding beauty to objects while honoring their original form and function.
The Essence of Ornament
In "The Principal of Ornament," James Ward provides a detailed explanation of ornamentation and its significance in design. He defines ornament as the enhancement of an object or surface with forms or colors that add beauty without altering the object's original shape or essence. Ward stresses the importance of ensuring that ornamentation does not overshadow the basic form, but instead showcases human creativity by stylizing natural elements to harmonize with the structure of the object.
Decoration vs. Ornament
Ward draws a crucial distinction between decoration and ornament:
Decoration can be purely representational.
Ornament, however, must show evidence of human interpretation and adaptation to the object's form.
This simple explanation underscores the transformative nature of ornament and its integral relationship to the object it adorns, while succinctly differentiating it from decoration.
ROAD TO THE MONOGRAM
Trianon gray canvas
In 1865, Louis Vuitton introduced a groundbreaking innovation in luggage design: the Trianon gray canvas. This development marked a significant departure from traditional leather trunks and revolutionized the luggage industry.
Vuitton's primary motivation for this innovation was to address the persistent issue of odor transfer from leather casings to the contents of trunks. To solve this problem, he developed a canvas treated with a flour-based adhesive. This novel material offered several advantages over conventional leather:
Odor Reduction: The canvas effectively eliminated the strong scents associated with leather.
Waterproofing: The flour-based glue treatment rendered the fabric impermeable to water.
Weight Reduction: The canvas was significantly lighter than leather, enhancing portability.
Aesthetic Appeal: Vuitton chose a light gray hue, dubbed "Trianon gray," which presented a modern and discreet appearance.
This innovation exemplified Vuitton's approach to design, characterized by simplification and functional improvement. The Trianon gray canvas represented a confluence of practical problem-solving and aesthetic consideration, setting a new standard in luggage manufacturing. Its introduction marked a pivotal moment in the history of travel accessories, influencing subsequent developments in the field.
IMAGE SOURCE: LOUIS VUITTON
RAYÉE CANVAS
In 1872, Louis Vuitton, ever vigilant against imitators, unveiled another groundbreaking design: the first striped canvas, also called the Rayée canvas. This innovative pattern featured four thin red stripes repeated on a beige background, marking a significant departure from previous designs
IMAGE SOURCE: THE STORY OF LOUIS VUITTON LUGGAGE BY LAIA FARRAN GRAVES
IMAGE SOURCE: LOUIS VUITTON THE BIRTH OF MODERN LUXURY BY PAUL-GÉRARD PASOLS
Historical Context of Stripes
The choice of stripes was not arbitrary. Historian Michel Pastoureau, in his book "L'Étoffe du diable," provides fascinating insights into the cultural significance of stripes in Western society:
Middle Ages:
Stripes were perceived as evil or even diabolic.
Renaissance:
Stripes gained prestige, especially vertical ones, while horizontal stripes signified lower status.
Late 18th Century:
Stripes experienced unprecedented popularity, extending from clothing to decorative fabrics and furniture.
The neoclassical era embraced stripes for their sobriety, rigor, and elegance. Vuitton's striped canvas tapped into this zeitgeist, offering a cheerful and singular pattern that captivated customers and sparked a fashion trend.
Symbolic Significance
Stripes were not just a design choice, but also a symbol of man's need for order in his environment. Vertical stripes, especially, were a favorite as they gave a sense of control in the midst of disorder at home. Louis Vuitton trunks with striped canvas were seen as dynamic, well-designed and a sign of carefully organized belongings.
Evolution of the Design
Louis Vuitton introduced a monochrome version of their striped canvas in 1876, just four years after the original design. This version included alternating stripes of light and dark beige, which would become Maison Vuitton's signature graphic palette. The color scheme was later used in the creation of the Damier and Monogram canvases.
Longevity and Loyalty
The Rayée canvas had an impressive lifespan, being produced officially until the late 1880s and continued to be manufactured for a loyal client, Madame D. A., until 1929. Madame D. A.'s family were early clients of the company, and Georges Vuitton had known her since childhood. His son Gaston-Louis also met her in 1889 during the Paris Exposition Universelle. Despite the design being discontinued, Madame D. A. inherited striped trunks from the 1870s and insisted on this design for her belongings.
Legacy and Challenges
The striped canvas, like the Trianon gray canvas before it, was highly successful. However, a major challenge arose as both designs were widely counterfeited. This ongoing problem of imitation would continue to push Louis Vuitton towards innovation.
The Damier canvas
The Damier canvas was extensively used for nearly a decade & It covered a wide range of products including rigid luggage, tall trunks, cabin trunks, wardrobes, and hatboxes. Louis Vuitton's innovative spirit in his final years. A little over a century later, the pattern was reintroduced as the Damier Ebène in 1998. A wide range of Damier patterns have been designed since then: Damier Azur, Damier Graphite, the embossed leather of Damier Infini, and more.
The creation of the Damier canvas illustrates Louis Vuitton's ongoing struggle against counterfeiters and his commitment to distinctive, high-quality designs. Its enduring popularity and recent revival demonstrate the timeless appeal of this classic pattern. In 1876, Louis Vuitton modified his striped canvas design. He created a beige monochrome pattern with alternating light and dark beige stripes. This design, however, failed to deter imitators.Faced with persistent imitation, Louis Vuitton, assisted by his son Georges, embarked on creating several new patterns. They ultimately settled on a design featuring alternating brown and beige squares.This became the iconic Damier canvas, created in 1888.
The Damier canvas introduced crucial new elements to the brand:
For the first time, the words "L. Vuitton registered trademark" appeared on the canvas.
This text was written diagonally across one of the checkered squares.
It represented Louis Vuitton's first attempt to patent his designs, though it didn't completely prevent counterfeiting.
An early attempt at brand protection through design.
A pivotal moment in the company's branding strategy.
The Monogram canvas
Georges Vuitton continued to face a persistent challenge: the continuous cycle of innovation, success, and imitation. This pattern drove him to take decisive measures, ultimately leading to the creation of the legendary Monogram canvas in 1896. This design would not only protect the brand but also become one of the earliest and most recognizable symbols of modern luxury.
The precautions taken with the creation of the Damier canvas had failed to stop plagiarists. Georges, who had been at the helm of Maison Vuitton since his father's death in 1892, chose to take an offensive approach. He decided to move away from traditional motifs with simple geometric stripes or checkered squares, which were too easily reproduced. He alternated his father’s initials with a quatrefoil shape and floral motif based on Japanese and Oriental imagery – a popular Victorian trend.
The design called Meli-Melo for their baby line was patented globally, while more traditional canvas options in solid yellow, orange, and brown were also offered. Georges spent weeks creating the new pattern, producing numerous drafts and alterations. The Monogram canvas that emerged retained elements of earlier designs with its brown and beige hues, yet it introduced a fresh and unique pattern.
ORNAMENT ANATOMY:THE MONOGRAM
IMAGE SOURCE: LOUIS VUITTON THE BIRTH OF MODERN LUXURY BY PAUL-GÉRARD PASOLS
The Monogram pattern consists of four key elements:
The interlaced LV initials of Louis Vuitton
A light beige four-pointed star with a dark beige center
Its inverse: A brown four-pointed star (or flower with pointed petals)
A brown four-petal flower inside a light beige circle
These elements are arranged in a precise, rhythmic pattern, creating a strong graphic impact. The layout follows a strict grid, with the light beige four-pointed star forming the basis of the structure.
Symbolic Significance
The Monogram is rich in symbolism:
It represents filial piety, with Georges paying tribute to his father through the LV initials
The floral elements may be seen as Georges "scattering flowers" on his father's work
Some interpret the four-petal flowers and four-point stars as lucky symbols, akin to four-leaf clovers
Although it is speculated that the monogram has some Japanese influences, Professor Atsushi Miura of the University of Tokyo suggests that the Monogram should be understood within the broader artistic and cultural context of late 19th-century France. The Monogram's design draws from various sources & It reflects influences from:
The modern movement of decorative arts and industrial design
French medieval art, as seen through a neo-Gothic lens. reflecting the 19th-century fascination with these periods
Possible exposure to global influences at the Expositions Universelles of 1878 and 1889
The work of Viollet-le-Duc, a prominent figure in Gothic revival architecture
Decorative arts of the late 19th century, including the emerging Art Nouveau movement
Thistle tiles, adorned some of the walls in the Vuitton family's house in Asnières.manufactured in Gien in 1882,
IMAGE SOURCE: LOUIS VUITTON THE BIRTH OF MODERN LUXURY BY PAUL-GÉRARD PASOLS
MONOGRAM VARIANTS
The present Monogram Signature collection consists of five distinct series that showcase the iconic Monogram pattern. These ranges feature various techniques and materials, such as Monogram Empreinte embossed leather and Monogram Mahina, which intricately punctures the original monogram design on smooth leather. Each item is designed to enhance in beauty with age. However there are discontinued monogram designs, like the Murikami Multicolor created for the collaboration between vuitton and him.
Monogram Empreinte
Created from supple leather, the Monogram Empreinte showcases the Maison’s artisanal craftsmanship and precision, offering a tone-on-tone impression of the emblematic Monogram motif. Delicately embossed, Louis Vuitton’s iconic silhouettes emerge as timeless companions, softening with each wear.
Monogram Reverse
Inverting the iconic canvas, the Monogram Reverse offers an illuminating twist on the original two-toned version. Paired with the traditional motif on a selection of models, the design is also revisited in enlarged proportions for the Monogram Reverse Giant.
Monogram Coussin
Crafted from puffy lambskin and embossed with the Maison’s iconic Monogram.
Monogram Mahina
Exuding a contemporary elegance, the Mahina reinterprets the iconic Monogram motif in a perforated leather finish. Imbued with softness and femininity, the delicate surface is silky to the touch, for a subtle, sophisticated allure.
LEGACY
Original Louis Vuitton Monogram Trademark Document.
IMAGE SOURCE: LOUIS VUITTON THE BIRTH OF MODERN LUXURY BY PAUL-GÉRARD PASOLS
The Louis Vuitton Monogram exemplifies James Ward's concept of ornament perfectly. It enriches the surface of Louis Vuitton products while preserving their shape and character, adding a new layer of beauty and brand identity.It demonstrates human intervention and artistic interpretation of natural elements. It combines stylized floral motifs with geometric patterns and the founder's initials, transforming these elements into a cohesive and distinctive ornamental design.
The motifs found in the Monogram have parallels in various civilizations, from 4th-century Coptic tapestries to medieval European architecture. This universal character contributes to its timeless appeal and global recognition. The Monogram canvas initially met with some resistance from the public, who still demanded the checkered and striped canvases. However, Georges stood firm, much like his father Louis had done with the flat trunk. His persistence and the strength of the design eventually won over conservative attitudes.
The Monogram as ornament emphasizes the forms of the objects it decorates rather than hiding them. The pattern's rhythmic interplay of horizontal and oblique lines, along with the strategic placement of floral motifs, creates a visually appealing grid that complements the structure of Louis Vuitton bags and accessories.
The Monogram canvas goes beyond mere decoration by serving multiple functions:
It enhances the aesthetic appeal of Louis Vuitton products.
It acts as a brand identifier, making products instantly recognizable.
It serves as a protective measure against counterfeiting.
The design's enduring popularity and its ability to adapt to various product shapes while maintaining its integrity further solidify its status as true ornament in Ward's sense of the term. The Monogram canvas has transcended its original purpose as a means of brand protection. It has become a signature of luxury, an invitation to travel, and a symbol of the artistic dimension of luxury goods. Georges Vuitton's creation asserted that being a trunk maker was not merely about technical skill, but about deploying creativity that elevates craftsmanship to an art form.
